My initial reaction when I started reading Trubek’s account on L’affaire Montavi was some sort of combination of a smirk, an eye roll, and a head shake. Globalization. It reminded me of my visit to my friend’s house near the sleepy town of Blue Hill, Maine, where, my friend told me, there had been much tension and animosity because of a new Dunkin’ Donuts that would be opened. The conflict had the two sides one would expect: some neighbors concerned that their town would fall victim of American commercialism and others hoping that it would improve its social and economic life. I also thought of how salvadoran farmers have stood against large multinationals and are able to provide their own seeds reminded me of the importance of community organization and unity in the face of possible “threats” from large corporations.
When I was done with the reading, however, I was glad that they seemed to share a more positive connection, one that it’s easier and certainly more enjoyable to think about: food memories.
As Trubek points out, place has a very important role in our relations to food. Whether it’s french wine or Vermont maple syrup, there seems to be a feeling, an aura, that transcends the differences in qualities or properties that might render these varieties of these products better than others. I think it’s closely related to our personal perceptions of these places, and it’s increased by our own experiences and memories. The same applies to many types of foods. Eating a meal, drinking a beverage, or simply briefly inhaling the soft aroma of a plant or herb can open a window into our memory, allowing to hold on to something that’s long gone, or to connect with some part of our identity. This is the reason why I, too, enjoy the traditional recipes that my grand mother cooks. They take me back to places that I’ve left, and people that I’ve lost, but that I always carry with me.
I am very much aligned with the values and feelings toward food recognition that you expressed in this post. As Raj Patel expressed to the VT site, the best way to present food arguments and food issues is through those fond memories and traditional recipes. All levels of any sort of social hierarchy can harken back to some sort of food tradition or cultural speciality. However, I hesitate to agree 100% with the traditional, terroir approach when discussing food issues because it introduces a lot more idealism than it does reality. Remembering grandma’s pie recipe is a great way to encourage people of the modern generation to try baking their own pie, rather than buying one at McDonalds. At the same time it also reinforces the idea that local and slow food is something of the past, and we need attention drawn to local food movements that are happening right now. Carrying on food traditions is key, but making sure that they are implemented in modern day is also just as important in my mind.