Terroir vs. Cross-Pollination

I was lucky enough to have a bit of background knowledge while reading Trubek’s Taste of Place chapter on maple syrup. Molly Constanza Robinson is my advisor! Upon discussing the importance of mineral structure in soils and bedrock she discussed her involvement in Trubek’s described investigation of maple syrup. I was enthralled then and just as enthralled while reading the contextual details of Trubek’s piece. I noticed that my enthusiasm mimicked a feeling I had during our 5th day last week while visiting High Mowing Seed Farm in Craftsbury, VT. This organic seed farm particularly peaked my interest because we were learning just how much you could breed for in a seed. Not just disease resistance or size, but color consistency and different taste profiles. As the farmer was explaining, my mind began to swim with all the tracks of qualities they were dealing with at once. What struck me as most poignant was their work to prevent cross pollination.

High Mowing plants that are not self-pollinators are kept miles apart from one another. This way a ‘pure’ strain of seed is produced and no hybrid species occurs. Right next to our little crowd was a patch of crops that the farmer pointed out was let out for infinite cross pollination. This juxtaposition of strict separation and ultimately “wild” crossing reminded me of Trubek’s untangling and mental separation of syrup in combination with the blended brands.

I’m left with the question of what to value more, and even more so why value hierarchically? The French idea of terrior allows a stronger culture and attachment to local foods, but, as we have seen, local food is currently seen as a luxury that isn’t universally accessible by all socio-economic classes. Does the idea of terroir apply too much of a ‘premium’ quality to be as ubiquitous as necessary? Or is it a strong enough connection to tradition that the benefits of conservation are enough?

I feel a little stuck. I’ve always seen cross-pollination with a positive connotation – interdisciplinary is THE definition of my major (and probably Molly Costanza-Robinson’s favorite word). However, pure and traditional have just as beneficial associations. Usually my values lie with what is more sustainable, but I’m not finding any sort of front runner. Food is intrinsically linked with tradition and familiar tastes, as shown through Berry’s piece, although collaboration amongst cultures generates amazing new tastes and practices. Ultimately this is a list of clashing good ideas and I’m not sure which one to choose, or if to choose at all.

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