Author Archives: Melissa Marshall

Melissa’s Proposal

In my paper, I will examine the cannibalization of the Keffiyeh (also spelled kuffiyah, kuffiya, kaffiyeh, and other various spellings exist as there is no standardized translation) from a regional identifier and political symbol into a Westernized fashion statement. I will first present a brief overview of the traditional use of the keffiyeh—its use in Arab countries as a tribe identifier, incorporation into the British Army, and in recent years, its more controversial status as a symbol of Palestinian nationalism. Then, I would like to proceed with a brief history of its fashion use in earlier periods, including its popularization during the 1920s era of American cinema, its visibility in “Lawrence of Arabia,” and later its revival in 1980s bohemian fashion. I will then move onto its prevalence in current “counter-culture” fashion trends and the controversy this causes in a Post-9/11 America. I want to pay particular attention to the Rachel Ray/Dunkin’ Donuts controversy as well as the pressure placed upon retail-chain Urban Outfitters by pro-Israel advocacy groups to remove the scarves. I would also like to place the entire argument in the broader context of fashion as a political statement, examining the punk movement, Che phenomenon, and the sickle and hammer. In terms of theory, I will probably use mostly Marxist and also semiotics, focusing on how the keffiyeh as a sign can have many different meanings.
For research materials, it seems as though blogs are definitely going to be a hotspot. There have also been many newspaper and magazine articles written—including coverage from The New York Times and The Village Voice. There is also an interesting book The Encyclopedia of the Arab-Israeli Conflict : A Political, Social, and Military History that has a good section on the keffiyeh. More generally, the library also has some good books on fashion theory and fashion as communication.

Any and all suggestions, additions, criticism, etc. is welcome. Thanks!