In my paper, I will examine the cannibalization of the Keffiyeh (also spelled kuffiyah, kuffiya, kaffiyeh, and other various spellings exist as there is no standardized translation) from a regional identifier and political symbol into a Westernized fashion statement. I will first present a brief overview of the traditional use of the keffiyeh—its use in Arab countries as a tribe identifier, incorporation into the British Army, and in recent years, its more controversial status as a symbol of Palestinian nationalism. Then, I would like to proceed with a brief history of its fashion use in earlier periods, including its popularization during the 1920s era of American cinema, its visibility in “Lawrence of Arabia,” and later its revival in 1980s bohemian fashion. I will then move onto its prevalence in current “counter-culture” fashion trends and the controversy this causes in a Post-9/11 America. I want to pay particular attention to the Rachel Ray/Dunkin’ Donuts controversy as well as the pressure placed upon retail-chain Urban Outfitters by pro-Israel advocacy groups to remove the scarves. I would also like to place the entire argument in the broader context of fashion as a political statement, examining the punk movement, Che phenomenon, and the sickle and hammer. In terms of theory, I will probably use mostly Marxist and also semiotics, focusing on how the keffiyeh as a sign can have many different meanings.
For research materials, it seems as though blogs are definitely going to be a hotspot. There have also been many newspaper and magazine articles written—including coverage from The New York Times and The Village Voice. There is also an interesting book The Encyclopedia of the Arab-Israeli Conflict : A Political, Social, and Military History that has a good section on the keffiyeh. More generally, the library also has some good books on fashion theory and fashion as communication.
Any and all suggestions, additions, criticism, etc. is welcome. Thanks!
Your plan to study the kaffiyah is interesting and I like your contextual approach of tying the phenomenon to recent events and examining how the kaffiyah’s meanings shift throughout time. I think Edward Said has some interesting essays on the use of kaffiyah in modern media, so you should definitely look into that. Also, if you can be more specific about what your argument is going to be, I might be able to help you out.
Good job though, I think this is a great topic.
I think this is a really interesting topic. It could be worthwhile to look at the type of stores that sell the keffiyeh and their customer bases to gain a better understanding of whether or not most people who wear the keffiyeh are aware of its political significance. I would assume that many stores sell and many customers (including celebrities) buy it without either knowing the politics or history involved. A friend gave one to me as a gift and neither she nor I was aware that it was actually far more complex than simply being just a “scarf.” She had bought one for herself and one for me at a trendy boutique in her hometown because she liked them and knew they were “in” now.
Melissa,
As we discussed, I think this is a promising topic. In terms of other research, you might look at other “ethnic chic” fashion trends, like henna, or the Kabbalah trend from a few years ago. I’m sure there’s some scholarship about that style of cultural appropriation. Michael Newbury in AMST teaches a course on Orientalism in popular culture, so he might have some references that might help frame your analysis (and I second Emre’s Edward Said suggestion). Good luck!