Food, inspiration and civic design

Berry’s reading for this week reminded me of a conversation I had with a great coworker in the office about community and food memories. We were discussing the role of home gardening in everyday life, which was part of a greater conversation about state wide rural and urban planning. Both of us were in favor of home gardening for several reasons, but his main reason was that gardening, and a strong connection to food in its natural environment is key to inspiring people about food and its place in society. I couldn’t agree more.

The question, as in many occasions, is how do we create and promote such access to food inspiration on state wide development policies, both in rural and urban environments. I believe that regional planning that focuses on neighborhoods and small towns (or sections of cities) is the key, and we should avoid investing solely in highly populated urban areas. This would enable regional development of the economy, education, health care and create a stronger local food system. A key benefit would be that it would mitigate urban migration, thus reducing unemployment, overcrowding and the associated effects of these.

Regional planning of this kind still does not provide food inspiration by itself. To address this, there must be an emphasis on community and neighborhood based food and energy projects. Picture this: a city block that has one main community farm (either a typical soil garden or vertical farm), and most of the other buildings also have rooftop gardens that supplement / support the greater production of the block. The majority of the food will be consumed by the neighborhood, and any surplus could be stored/ sold/shared with another neighborhood. Specialty crops, and probably some other variety would still be available at farm stands that deliver from farms outside the city (probably more common in areas with much limited vertical space).

Naturally, the value system of such neighborhoods would be very different from what it is today. To begin with, gardening (and farming), wouldn’t look like a burden or a chore, but as a way of life that everyone contributes to the food system. This in turn would bring the realization of the sense of interconnectedness we have with the social, environmental and economic spheres of our lives, and cultivate mutual responsibility. A necessary outcome of such an approach is also, in my opinion, a change to our diets and menu – we will mainly eat much more vegetables and much less meat. To begin with, in order to support more vegetable and fruits demand the out-of-city farmers would transition away from corn (that feeds cattle mostly) and soy in order to grow fruits and vegetables. This would also greatly reduce the environmental impacts of agriculture but that is a different conversation. To inspire in the way that our conversation begun, and as my coworker said recounting his childhood memories from wild berries, we have to focus on sparking the imagination of food in order for this to happen.

 

Peculiar Sorrow

Wendell Berry’s short but captivating and richer-than-life painting of his character’s grandmother is the best of the best writing there is to read. But it speaks to themes larger than me. After reading I was stuck in the middle of this piece, between the food writing. The piece is bookended by pie but the meat is in the middle.

“. . . I am troubled with love for her, knowing how she was wrung all her life between her cherished resentments and fierce affections. A peculiar sorrow hovered about her, and not only for the inevitable losses and griefs of her years. . . She was haunted, I think, by the suspicion of a comedown always lurking behind best appearances.”

The pie goes into the oven, and all of a sudden we are tossed into this flash-back inside a flash-forward inside a flash-back and here we find this deep emptiness. She was “wrung” like a rag, there is too much subtext to this for me to handle or analyze, I can only react emotionally. This is what happens while the pie is baking?

I need to read Paradise Lost, I guess.  Something to do with the war, I don’t have the context for this. But I want to understand this woman. Mr. Berry tells us more than we can even puzzle out through his words. He speaks of a generation of people.

I would really love to learn more about the themes, history and symbolism at play here, but for the moment it is beyond me. I want to know what the “lostness of Paradise” is. It is a “prime fact of her world,” Berry shows it to us, but it is lost on me. That hurts.

All I can do for now is enjoy the pie at the end like everyone else. Wow. Delicious beyond words.

Community in a Kitchen

Reading the Wendell Berry piece for this week, in which Andy Catlett tells a story about watching his grandmother make pie, was interesting to me in what it said about cooking as a way to relate to one another. In the piece, Catlett explains how his grandmother talked while she cooked, updating him on the latest news from the family, and how he followed her around and listened intently. Through spending time with his grandmother as she cooks, he becomes closer to her and closer to his family, demonstrating how cooking can help individuals connect to one another. We’ve talked about food and community a lot in this class, and this piece was interesting to me because it seemed to describe a different process of creating connection through food, one that seems more relevant to me and my internship this summer than our discussions of eating local or food justice.

In general, I’ve been working two days a week at the Parent-Child Center in the town of Middlebury, an organization that works with families and children, especially young mothers and their children. I work in the kitchen with some young women who participate in the job training program, as well as whoever is our supervisor for the day. I spend most of my time helping with basic food prep by cutting vegetables or preparing food to send to the childcare rooms, or washing the dishes from the childcare rooms after everyone has eaten. I’ve really enjoyed the work environment because of how much the kitchen seems to be a space in which community is built. The women with whom I work are constantly sharing and comparing stories about the growth of their children and how they’re adjusting to new schools and new summer schedules, and how they themselves are doing in their relationships with husbands and boyfriends. Throughout the day, the women share words of support about how they handled similar situations, or make plans to share time and resources outside of the kitchen once work is over. It’s been interesting to see just how well the women know each other and their families, for instance when every meal is considered for allergies or diet preferences. They seem to carry around long and detailed mental lists of who can eat what, down to whether each child drinks whole or 1% milk. Additionally, at the beginning of each day when we look at the schedule to see what lunch will be for that day, the items on the menu often prompt funny stories involving the women’s families.

In Andy Catlett’s story, his grandmother is using mostly local ingredients and recipes that were probably handed down through the generations. While there has been some talk of how to increase the amount of local food used in the meals at the Parent-Child Center, my guess is that few ingredients are local, and Michael Pollan would not be please to hear that sometimes the meals include items that Berry’s grandmother certainly would not recognize as food (like today’s fishsticks). However, I think it’s important to recognize the small ways that people are connecting around food in order to better understand how the realities of our current food system compare to the huge goals that we’ve set for ourselves. For instance, budget concerns were the first thing mentioned at the suggestion of increasing local food. One of my questions about increasing local food would be the children’s response to new local vegetables, some of which may be unfamiliar. Overall, I appreciate the experience I’ve had at my internship because I’ve been able to see the community that can be formed in a kitchen, even when we have so far to go in terms of changing the way our society at large relates to food.

Joining at the Table

In reading Wendell Berry’s  piece this week, he offers us such subtle and succinct wording to describe a very intimate moment, which brought back memories for me in my own life. Berry describes food as comforting and welcoming, which reminds me of when I was younger and siting at the table watching my Grandmother cook. I would always engage in dialogue, which is so memorable and vivid in the presence of food. For me, he demonstrates a “southern style” food moment through his word choices in this piece. For example, I was struck by how simple, but powerful Berry’s words were in this piece. The sensory details that are present take the reader to the exact moment and place in which Berry is referring to from the life of Andy Catlett. The piece provides a very inviting picture for the reader; a picture that allows the reader to become one with food.

I love how Wendell Berry uses pie as a symbol and theme of this piece because it really brings out the message of how we should use food as a symbol of our everyday life. Food has so many meanings, and brings to light so many emotions and stories. The magnitude and power of the stories told and shared through food is amazing. Food is used as a political, social, and religious symbol throughout all of mankind. I know in my own life, food gives the ability for individuals to relate to one another. It provides a vivid and personal moment between multiple groups of people. I think through Wendell Berry’s diction and sensory details in this piece, the reader can learn to use food as a commonality that helps bring people together no matter what race, creed, or belief an individual comes from.

Food Memories

Andy Catlett’s memory of his grandmother’s cooking truly struck me. I was enthralled by the sensory experience he was able to capture: the sights and smells of the food, the sound of his grandmother murmuring to herself, and the expert touch of her hands on the pie crust. Catlett remarks on the fresh sausage on the table, available because it was soon after “hog-killing time.” He knows that the pie will be made with blackberries picked straight from the nearby woods.

My food memories are completely different than this one. When I was younger, food was not as important a part of my life as it is now. Now I love to cook, experiment with new recipes and ingredients, go to farmers markets, and learn about food systems. When I was younger, food just seemed like another routine and my palate was extremely limited. My favorite food was Annie’s white cheddar Mac n’ Cheese shells. The only vegetables I would eat were carrots. The texture of fruit freaked me out. I really liked white bread with Skippy peanut butter (no jelly) with the crusts cut off. (Just an interesting side note: Microsoft word recognizes the word “Skippy,” showing just how engrained in our lives major US food brands have become.) I have so many memories of sitting at my kitchen table waiting for my dad to ask my what I wanted for breakfast. Every day I would say the same thing: “a peanut butter sandwich please!” And my dad knew all of my special requirements. Annie’s Mac is still my comfort food—if I am feeling sad, stressed, or lonely, Annie’s Mac reminds me of home and safety.

Maybe I would have thought about food differently if I had been raised on a farm. My cousin is a farmer. He lives in a one-room house, does not have television or Internet, and doesn’t believe in using a lot of machinery for his farming. He makes the most delicious maple syrup I have ever tasted, and the steaks he brought us last time he visited were so flavorful. He eats what he grows every single day. He’s about to have a baby, and I’m sure that baby will grow up with food memories that are entirely different from my own. (He’s actually a little bit condescending towards my family, living our fast-paced New York City lives. He believes that we should all live off the land and not care about going to fancy colleges or making money. I don’t agree with this prescription, but I do admire how hard he works.)

Whether your food memories are of homemade cooking from ingredients grown on your own farm, or of crustless peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, they are significant. Food brings people together. Family meals are so important, no matter what is on the table. Eating at a dinner table is a time to relax and take a break from hectic every day life; a time to enjoy the company of family and friends and talk to each other. Making time for sit-down meals is something I want to work on in my life. Our food system makes it so easy to purchase quick, packaged food and eat while on the go from one thing to the next. Although it often takes a lot of time to seek out fresh foods (for example fresh meat from the farmers market), I think that taking a pause in the day to cook with any ingredients you can find is important. I want to try to slow down and take the time to enjoy one of the greatest pleasures in life—food.

 

The Shared Experience of Eating

 

I took a winter course on “Food, Culture, and Communication” co-taught by the lovely Sohpie Esser-Calvi and her husband Ben. We spent a lot of time sharing our own food stories and listening and reading those of others. It was incredibly powerful to hear students’ experiences with food; everything from diving for clams in Cape Cod to trading traditional Jewish foods in middle school during lunch time for the highly coveted Gushers. I could connect with every story and it wasn’t like we were all great storytellers. Reading Wendell Berry’s piece about Andy Catlett made me realize that the reason I found these food stories so fascinating and relatable was that they were all about food. Even though I hadn’t eaten spam musubi nor had I eaten the mangos in Costa Rica, Berry’s story made me realize that I could relate because I know what it is like to eat.

Andy Catlett’s experience with his grandmother really struck a cord with me. His writing is incredibly accessible as even though not all are familiar with rural farm life, grandmothers, or even pies, we all know food. There is something about sharing food stories that is palpable in a way no other fiction is.

I think this is because food is the ultimate sensory experience. It provides us with an endless array of smells, tastes, textures, and sounds. Often times food sticks around long after it was first consumed in our bodies, providing a friendly reminder of the experience we have had. Eating is the most physically-holistic experience out there. Food forms our bodies and our experiences affecting everything from energy levels, sleep habits, and overall health and is something that we engage with everyday. Stories like Berry’s connect us in ways that other literature can’t as they play on this common experience and joy of eating.

Going back to Sophie’s comment during the video panel with Bill McKibben, Helen Young, Dara Scott, and Kirk Webster, the way to connect with people and create meaningful change is by taping into the pleasure and love for and from food. Sharing food stories, while seemingly not much more than an entertaining ice-breaker has the ability to connect and unite people prompting greater systemic change. If someone were to tell me now, after having read Berry’s story, that wild black raspberries were becoming endangered I am much more likely to stand up and do something about it as now I better understand the significance it has to real people if they were to become extinct.

Looking Past Nutrition Labels to Get a Clearer View of Our Food

The stream of light amber re-coats a sticky spout with a new layer of syrup. Upon contact with the surface of hot pancake, the liquid pools momentarily before splitting its path to cascade over the layered edges of the stack in a synthetic drizzle. An ultimate “imitation food” (Pollan 153), this combination of caramel coloring and corn syrup makes a sweet mixture not as sincere, but equally as mysterious as maple syrup itself.

The “mystical acts” that have come to represent the making of food products illustrate the increasing amount of unfamiliarity we have with the processes that form our food (Trubek 217). If the steps involved in making wine or maple syrup seem like wizardry to the average consumer, how do we begin to comprehend the processes that go into making a diet Coke or Mrs. Butterworth’s sugar free syrup? These food-like products take us even further from an understanding of food and immerse us in a foodscape dictated by health claims and nutrition labels. The compartmentalization that separates processes from results is a key factor in solidifying the “foodviews” held by consumers, so that an individual’s connection to the place or people involved in a food’s journey is eliminated from the process of food selection (Trubek 222).

In contrast to the French, who are very aware of how and where their food is produced (Trubek 84), it seems that Americans can drown their waffles in sodium hexametaphosphate and high fructose corn syrup while still viewing their breakfast condiment as a relative of maple syrup. The secrecy that is so prevalent in the food systems of the United States is not tolerated in France, as demonstrated by the events that made up the Mondavi case (Trubek 84). Unlike the French, American consumers don’t know where their food comes from, which makes them a lot less likely to fight for the protection of a given place or the use of a certain production method, since they have no connection to these things in the first place.

How can we begin to care enough about the land our food is made on to be willing to fight to protect it? Without a culture that ties us to traditional methods of production and a respect for land, it becomes exponentially more difficult to promote sustainable practices that honor a food’s natural form and the longevity of the land on which it’s produced. Moving forward, we must realize the value in knowing how a food is made, and use that knowledge as leverage to begin questioning the products that end up on our plate.

 

Feminist Food

I stepped into the room with urgency: straining, appraising the scene, letting an electric mixture of panic and adrenaline soak my nerves. Smoke was unfurling around the room in dense, hot, steamy clouds. The white lights set the room in an uncomfortable fluorescent glow, as if a spotlight were trained on us all. There was a constant metallic clanking as tools were used and discarded, alarms shrieked in displeasure, and I spoke in a calm and clear voice above the maelstrom of movement, announcing my arrival with the question, “How can I help?” I was ushered to a small workstation and handed the necessary equipment. My assignment arrived in scalding glass: to tile, in marshmallow, a sweet potato pie.

Thanksgiving

Not all kitchens are war scenes. Some are clean and meticulous, some are haphazard but cheerful, some are casual and vibrant, but on Thanksgiving Day all kitchens become food factories and butcheries. My grandmother’s is no exception. The women in my family are a bastion of strength and feminism, and yet, with the exception of wielding the carving knife, we perform all of the culinary duties. Maybe it’s because on the most ancient of American holidays we conform to heteronormative roles, maybe it’s because we enjoy cooking the most, or maybe it’s because if you want something done well, you do it yourself. Our team consisted of the following: my grandmother, a Wellesley graduate, family commander-in-chief, and chef extraordinaire; my mother, owner of prestigious undergraduate and law degrees, full time parent by choice, and responsible for two[1] Ivy League acceptances; and myself, a liberal, feminist, Brown student, with a labored sense of purpose and language (see use of “maelstrom”). We could not be more qualified to run a kitchen, or the world.

Our kitchen operated in machine-like fashion. We sliced, scraped, and stirred on schedule. No recipe or dietary restriction was too daunting for our fearless trio. We deftly adopted an in-law’s sweet potato pie. We carefully cultivated simple choices for little picky eaters. We created low-sodium options, low-acidic sauces, and lactose-free alternatives. We produced the most glorious Thanksgiving spread that anyone has ever seen. Or at least, that feast will be preserved in my memory that way: a sweet potato pie the color of sunrise with cartoon-like wisps of steam hovering above it. And us three, culinary superheroes, ready to fight one platter at a time.

When I cook for myself in the box-like kitchen of my dorm room, I mimic their motions. I stir pots and toss saucepans using my mother’s hands; I borrow my grandmother’s fingers to hold and chop. I examine chicken with their eyes to see if it’s cooked all the way through. I taste sauces through their lips. When I do something right I feel pride swell inside my chest. Pride and cooking are inextricably linked. There’s a sense of satisfaction in providing your own sustenance. Beyond that I feel pride because I can call my mother and say “You won’t believe what I just made. I wish you were here to see try it.” I may be twenty, but I will never be too old for my pride to balloon with the thought of my mother and grandmother eating something that I’ve made.

My memories may be coated in rose-colored varnish, but I relish in knowing that I have learned from masters, and if I close my eyes I can watch them turning eggs in a pan.

[1] Soon to be three.

United Plates of America

It’s likely that I’ll title most of my posts as puns because I enjoy clever phrases.

To me, the phrase “vote with your fork” is powerfully symbolic. It embodies the American ideal and in many ways the American reality. For most consumers in the United States, we are lucky enough to be in the position of being able to choose what we eat. We have access to a plethora of food streams, from grocery stores to farmer’s markets to restaurants to convenience stores to locally owned businesses to vending machines. We live in a world where our food selection is shaped almost exclusively by demand. The majority of Americans are not constrained by access to food in the same way that citizens of developing countries are, though there are food deserts. Americans aren’t limited to the crops that survived; we have access to most varieties of food year-round. We don’t have regular food shortages and most importantly, we don’t lose a large portion of our food due to poor transportation and storage facilities. Capitalism is often criticized for different and valid reasons, but it does work in the sense that we get to vote with our forks and our dollars. For the most part, we do get to vote with our forks, and that’s not something I take lightly.

The problem with all of the choice and freedom is that it masks the underlying issues, one of which we are making many bad food choices. I am just as guilty of this as the next person. I respect the food movement because it aims to reconnect Americans with their food. I’ve said this before on the blog and I’ll say it again. We have become so disconnected with our food that we barely recognize what it actually is or where it comes from. One of the most incredible things to me is that the agricultural sector is still exempt from many labor regulations because most people have an idealistic view of farm-life, and by extension their food sources. If the food movement is able to bridge that gap even a little bit, then I think that it’s a positive change. People need to be willing to pay more for food that is fairly, respectfully, and healthfully produced; other countries may see the movement as elitist or non-essential, and they may be right. However, the core values of the food movement are necessary, and will become increasingly important.

Local and Global

What a stimulating videoconference we had on Saturday morning! Many thanks to everyone for that probing and far-ranging conversation. I truly felt that, cameras and all, we achieved lift-off together.

There are many significant topics from this session that we will want to return to. But as you post about the readings for this week I would encourage any connections with Saturday’s discussion of local versus global perspectives on food.  Both Berry and Trubek raise points we just considered together. Trubek, especially, speaks to the local-global dialectic. She explores the applicability of the notion of terroir, from the French wine-making tradition, to a variety of other foods around the world. As I mentioned to you earlier, she has studied Anthropology at the graduate level in addition to her current teaching in Food Studies and her work as a professional chef. Her background in cultural analysis is especially helpful in looking at how community and social customs are sometimes left out the reckoning when people write about terroir. I’m thinking here especially of her analysis of l’Affaire Mondavi.