I completely registered with Wendell Berry’s depiction of a passive consumer: one who blindly eats what is given to them and is disconnected from the land and the agricultural act that is eating. I was completely ignorant on the current disarray of the food system before this summer. Actually, if I’m being honest, I was completely ignorant of anything to do with food. I didn’t cook. The kitchen has always been left to my mother, who dished out delicious concoctions, which I ate and appreciated for their tastiness, but that was pretty much as far as I entered into the cooking realm.
I also have only a small grasp on nutrition. Probably due to her Texas roots, which come with a love of barbeque, butter, and big portions, my mother never really prioritized healthy eating in the house. In fact, we laughed at the L.A. women on their low carb, sugar free, trendy new diets, who would order a few leaves of lettuce at a restaurant with outward glee while, (at least I imagined) they wept internally for the sumptuous meals they passed up.
Even though we are only a week into the program, this summer has already been eye opening for me. To prepare for my internship at Food and Water Watch, I began reading the executive director, Wenonah Hauter’s book: Foodopoly. In short, Hauter explains how our current food system is broken, because of the dominance of factory farms over more sustainable agriculture. I was horrified and outraged over the government policies that are fueling this harmful system, and began to research more on the topic. I finally understood that by being ignorant about the food I ate, I was actually making a choice to support the destructive reign of factory farms.
This summer I’m trying to follow Pollan’s guidelines. I’m thinking about what my Great Grandmother, Meme Holmes, would think of the ingredients I purchase. I’m cooking, starting with simple recipes of the right portions and organic ingredients. Or at least trying. At work, I’m researching food policy. On weekends and lunch breaks, I seek to engage with the local DC community. Slowly but surely, I’m trying to connect with the land and take back my role as an active member of the agricultural food chain.
The thing I’m realizing is that eating responsibly is actually very freeing. I don’t have to be chained to some fad of a diet. Food should be enjoyable and flavorful. I think Petrini explained it best that good food should evoke history, culture, and tradition. I don’t have to write off my mother’s cooking. She reminded me on a call this weekend that good Texas brisket smokers, like my Grandfather, Poppa John, practice very sustainable cooking. They have incredible respect for their animals. Poppa John would use the meat from the cows of his neighbor (a small time farmer), wake at the crack of dawn to meticulously smoke the meat, and then later that night serve it to us grandchildren who came to visit on summer holiday. So when I’ve honed my cooking skills, maybe I’ll take on some family recipes….with some more healthy modifications and proper portions of course.
Hannah this was great to read and made me think about some of the issues with the food movement…
I found your comment on “not writing off” your family’s way of cooking really relevant. For me this brings up the exclusivity of the local food movement. Texas brisket doesn’t connote sustainability by and large in the local food movement which I think is a huge problem. We tend to only discuss the people that are eating kale and going to farmers markets but that leaves out a whole lot of people and practices that are doing just as meaningful (if not more meaningful) things! When we limit the discussion about sustainable food systems to those L.A. fad dieters and salad eaters we limit the potential for the movement to actually go somewhere and gain momentum. In my eyes, in order to change this, we need to start having these discussions outside of government rooms, conferences, symposiums and other elite settings and have the discussion in spaces that are accesible and inviting to everyone.
Thanks for the thought-provoking post!
-Chloe
This was highly enjoyable to read, Hannah. Your voice is authentic and engaging, your examples, both from people-watching in L. A. and from the food culture of your Texas family, entertaining. By making Pollan’s remarks about how our great-grandmothers ate personal, you get to introduce us to Meme and Poppa (whose barbeque definitely speakes to me in this hour before lunch). They represent a rural world that’s helpful to keep in mind, and they explain why your mother’s cooking (which sounds a lot like my own Louisiana mother’s cooking) was so different from the choices of lettuce-leaf-munching patrons of restaurants just a few tables away from you in California.
I encourage you to keep going with this associative and personal approach. It will yield many insights, especially if you yoke it even a bit more closely to a passage here and there in the reading.
It’s very good to have you in the class this summer.