by Afsaana Rashid
– Indian-administered Kashmir –
At a time when it is very difficult to find people willing to extend the hand of human kindness to those practicing a different religion, Muslims living in the Kashmir valley have set a great example by assisting Hindus on their pilgrimage.
The Amarnath yatra, or journey, is one of the most important Hindu pilgrimages. Traversing predominantly Muslim territory through the Himalayas, the quest has traditionally been facilitated by the local Muslims. This year, the pilgrimage took place in the midst of ongoing violent protests by the Muslim community against the Indian administration. Undeterred, Indian Hindus set forth on their trek, confident that their historical ties to the Muslim community would be honored. In a twist of irony, it was the Indian government that disappointed many pilgrims, and the opposition Muslim community that came to their aid.
Amarnath Cave
Situated in a narrow gorge at the far end of picturesque Lidder valley, the Amarnath cave houses an ice stalagmite resembling Lord Shiva, the greatest of Hindu deities, revered as both destroyer and healer. Surrounded by two additional ice lingams representing the goddess Parvati and their son, Ganesha, the natural wonder is one of the most significant Hindu religious sites.
Pilgrims, or yatris, typically make the nearly 50 kilometer journey from the popular tourist resort of Pahalgam over a four day period, resting overnight in towns along the way. It is a festive occasion, as the devotees sing bhajans and chant incantations while priests perform aarti and puja, invoking the blessings of Lord Shiva.
Hindus across the globe yearn to perform darshan, the act of viewing and paying obeisance before the lingum, which is also revered as the phallic symbol of the deity. Lakhs (hundreds of thousands) of devotees perform the pilgrimage annually during the month of Sharavan (June-August) through tough terrain. Since this year’s yatra started on June 18, more than six lakh pilgrims have performed darshan.
Violence Over Land Transfer
In Indian-administered Kashmir, a sustained political movement has been ongoing since 1947 against India, taking the shape of a militant uprising in 1989. Estimates put the number of civilian casualties during the past two decades between 80,000 and one lakh.
This year in June, Kashmiris launched an agitation against the state government’s decision to transfer 40 hectares of land to the Shri Amarnath Shrine Board (SASB). Article 370 specifically prohibits the sale of land to non-Kashmiris, so people came out to the streets in protest.
Although the order was later revoked, followed by the resignation of Ghulam Nabi Azad, Jammu and Kashmir’s chief minister, the situation turned volatile in Kashmir valley. Lasting nine days during the final week of June, the violence claimed six lives and injured hundreds.
Indian Pilgrims Frustrated
Though the conflict affected this year’s pilgrimage, grievances by pilgrims have been against their own Indian government. Complaints ranged from frustrations over a lack of basic facilities to allegations of harassment from security-minded troops.
“We are put to intense frisking by the troops and it seems that we are visiting a war-ravaged-area and not one of religious importance,” says Kumar, a yatri from Gujarat in India.
“We are demanded to pay Rs. 1260 (approximately US$29) for one gas cylinder – four times the actual price. There are no proper facilities in the langar. We are welcomed by common Kashmiris [while] the authorities show no concern,” says Prabod Dutta, a yatri.
Abhijeet, another yatri from Mumbai says that the officials give the impression that they want to ensure the security of yatris. “But I don’t trust them. The security forces cannot provide us security all along the route to the holy cave. The government should make other arrangements, but unfortunately they haven’t.” Though there were stray incidents of bricks being thrown at some of the vehicles carrying pilgrims, the yatra continued for the most part peacefully.
Muslim Community Steps In
Muslim separatist leaders appealed to the people protesting against the land transfer to not harm the pilgrims as it goes against the basic teachings of Islam. Their common refrain on the issue was “we are not against the Hindu religion or the Amarnath yatra.”
Mohammad Yasin Malik, who is the chairman of Jammu Kashmir Liberation Front (JKLF), a pro-resistance party, visited the yatri base camp at Baltal-Sonamarg and enquired about facilities being made available to the pilgrims. On this occasion JKLF volunteers distributed rice, pulses, flour and blankets. He was given a warm welcome by the yatris who shouted slogans in favor of Hindu-Muslim unity.
Mufti Bashir-u-din, the grand Mufti of the state, also paid a visit to the yatra base camp at Baltal. He told the yatris that they should go ahead with their religious duty, without any fear.
Although hotels and eateries were closed on account of the conflict, pilgrims didn’t have to look far to find food and shelter. The Muslims opened langars (community kitchens) and began making arrangements for their overnight stay in the valley. Amarnath pilgrims passing through the Kashmir valley this year are full of appreciation for the warm hospitality of locals.
“We found the pilgrims, men, women and children, stranded here and decided to arrange free food and shelter for them,” says Mohammad Zubair, a volunteer.
They started the langars on the fourth day of the protests. “We have fed thousands of Hindu devotees, mostly returning from the Amarnath cave,” says Zubair.
Besides Dalgate and Boulevard, the volunteers set up community kitchens at the Tourist Reception Centre in the city and places on the way to Pahalgam and Baltal, the base camps for the yatra.
For Ajay Sharma, a yatri, the valley turned out to be an oasis after the grueling journey to the Amarnath cave.
“I am grateful to Kashmiri Muslims who saved me and my family from starvation. We had our first proper meal in three days at the langar run by them at Dalgate,” says Ajay, adding that the problems were not created by them but by the politicians.
Anand from Rajasthan, chips in, “An impression is given by some vested elements that the situation is very tense in Kashmir and it is not wise to perform yatra. But coming over here, one comes to know about the hospitality of Kashmiris. The people living over here provided us food and blankets.”
While sharing his views on the role of Muslims during amarnath yatra, sadhu Rahul Prakash says that it is all due to the cooperation and support of the majority community that the religious journey has been successful. He says the Muslims have played an important role by providing food, clothing, shelter and other necessities to pilgrims all along the route to the cave.
Muslims have also offered their horses, as the trek is challenging, especially for the elderly.
“A Muslim youth helped us reach the cave shrine of Lord Shiva and again another Muslim provided us food and shelter when we returned. We offered them money but they politely refused,” says Anand.
“Islam gives a message that Muslims should be tolerant towards other religions and it is this same principle which has been guiding us all along,” says Mohammad Subhan, a horse rider. He says that Amarnath yatra creates a bond of friendship, love, religious tolerance and compassion between Muslims and Hindus.
Hope for the Future
The camaraderie between the locals and pilgrims has become all the more important this year. Whatever the political and military tensions playing out in the background, The Amarnath Yatra has always epitomized love and peace among yatris and locals. That Muslims can put aside their dispute with the Indian administration and in a gesture of communal harmony and brotherhood provide hospitality to Hindu pilgrims is an inspiration to us all.
About the Author
Afsaana Rashid is a journalist living in Indian-administered Kashmir and the author of Waiting for Justice: Widows and Half Widows, a book that addresses the plight of many women whose husbands have been subjected to enforced disappearance or custodial killings over the past two decades of Kashmir’s conflict. Currently a senior correspondent with Kashmir’s Daily Etalaat, she has also been a correspondent for The Kashmir Times and Kashmir Images. She received her Masters in Mass Communication and Journalism from the University of Kashmir.
In 2005, Afsaana was awarded a fellowship for her work on the impact of conflict on the subsistence livelihoods of marginalized communities in Kashmir by Action Aid India. The following year, she was awarded a Sanjoy Ghose Media fellowship for her work in conflict areas. She also received a UN Population Fund-Laadli Media Award for best reporting in adverse conditions on gender issues in April 2008.
Devoted to covering human rights violations, Afsaana hopes to give a voice to the voiceless.
Thank you for sharing this story of hospitality and a tradition of human kindness above politics. It is an inspiration for readers everywhere, and has made me realize that I need to learn more about this region. Well done!