Tuesday marked the beginning of my first ever visa run. On a recommendation from a colleague, I decided to journey to the mountain town of Boquete, Panama for some cool air, quiet, and time to write. My journey was much easier than I anticipated. I met the direct bus from San José at the bus stop across from the hospital in Quepos. The bus driver was very kind and helped me place my big backpack under the bus while I boarded. Soon after, the bus stopped for a 30 minute break in Uvita. Then, it was direct until the border at Paso Canoas. Several people left the bus on the way. By the time we reached the boarder at 6pm, it was only myself and a Panamanian boy continuing on to David. Or, as our bus driver explained to the customs control, “Solo tengo una gringa y un panameno.” I have to give much of the credit to the smoothness of my trip to the bus driver and Jorge, the Panamanian.

On the Costa Rica side of the boarder, I paid an exit tax to a redhead girl from Costa Rica whose name was also Lily (what are the chances!) She walked me through dropping off my customs form and showed me where to go to enter into Panama. I should mention that it was dark and raining. When Lily showed up with an umbrella I thought maybe she would walk the 300 meters with me. Alas, she pointed to the building with the red lights, made sure I saw it, and then said, “Corre” (run).

A little wet, I arrived to the Panamanian boarder where my bus driver, Alejandro, was waiting. He stood near me in line and made sure all my documents were in order. At this point, I met Jorge and learned he lives in Boquete and helps his family run a bed and breakfast. Then, Alejandro and Jorge listened closely as the women at the counter and another male official who stood behind her reviewed my documents. First, they looked at my passport. The women remarked that I was much thinner than in my picture and the man gave me a big smile and a thumbs-up. Then, she asked to see my return ticket leaving Panama, a return ticket to the United States, and a U.S. credit card. Next, she questioned me where I was traveling to and for how long. Satisfied that I’m a tourist, she stamped my passport and I was on my way. Alejandro helped me back to the bus and brought over an official who would review my and Jorge’s luggage. Because there were only two of us, it was raining, and dark, the official told us to just take our bags back onto the bus and off we went.

On the way to David, Jorge talked about how he left his tica girlfriend in San Jose and missed her terribly. They have been together for 4 years, but separation is never easy. He and the bus driver joked that either Jorge would convince her to move to Panama, or Jorge would give in and move to Costa Rica. Jorge and I commiserated about long distance relationships and agreed that when it’s the right person, it’s completely worth it. Once we arrived in David, Jorge helped me board to the bus to Boquete. It was packed full and blaring Latin American music videos, which were very entertaining. We finally arrived in Boquete at 9:30pm.

The hostel I’m staying at, Mamallena is hip, friendly and clean. The dorm is spacious and there are several places to hang out. My only complaint is that the only breakfast offering is pancakes. But, such is the life of a celiac. However, I am always prepared with my own gluten-free breakfast snacks. I spent the morning wandering around this small and relaxed town and began writing while enjoying a tea latte in a local café. Life is good 🙂